Skip to content
History • Heritage • DiscoveryRhayader · Mid Wales
Military history · Elan Valley

Elan Valley in Wartime

From the thundering artillery trials of the early 1900s to the people who guarded the valley’s water supply during two world wars.

Explore the history
Historic Birmingham Water Guard photographBirmingham Water Guard · Historic archive photograph
1903–1914 · Before the Great War

Artillery in the hills above Rhayader

In September 1903 the Royal Artillery used the hills above Cwmdauddwr for training. Six heavy guns were pulled to the top of Penrhiwen by horses. During the two weeks of heavy ordnance firing, the farmhouses of Hirnant, Glanhirin and Troedrhiwdrain were evacuated.

In 1908 firing with six-inch howitzers began, using shells weighing 280lb. On 5th August 1908 three batteries were in operation simultaneously, firing with large nine-inch howitzer guns. Around 120 rounds were fired at distances ranging from 2,500 to 5,000 yards.

In 1910 long-range gun fire practice with star shells took place at night using 6-inch and 9.45-inch howitzers. Day firing at a range of 9 miles also took place. Craters, mounds and shrapnel from the shells can still be found on Esgair Rhiwlan, Esgair Cywion and Esgair Crawnllwyn.

After the declaration of war on 4th August 1914, troops and artillery were withdrawn from the Elan Valley and sent to France.

1903Royal Artillery training begins above Cwmdauddwr
1908Heavy howitzer firing trials
1910Night firing and long-range practice
1914Troops and guns leave for France
Archive collection 01

The guns and their crews

Historic photographs of the heavy guns tested in the Elan Valley and the people who operated them.

The Mother — photograph 1 of 6
Historic artillery

The Mother

The 9-inch howitzer known as “The Mother”. One of the guns tested in the Elan Valley, later used in World War I, and now on display at the Imperial War Museum, London.

6 archive photographs
The Mother — photograph 2 of 6The Mother — photograph 3 of 6The Mother — photograph 4 of 6The Mother — photograph 5 of 6The Mother — photograph 6 of 6
Archive collection 02

The Birmingham Water Guard

Protecting the water supply during the First World War.

During World War I, in 1917 it was decided that the Water Supply Aqueduct needed protection over its 75-mile length. The Elan Valley also required guarding. Two West Midland officers and 25 Special Constables were on duty in the Elan Valley and maintained watch over the Foel Tower. The Birmingham Water Guard Medal was instituted on 5th December 1918 and 870 Special Constables received the award. Up to 700 volunteers attended Birmingham Town Hall on 10th January 1919 to receive their medals. Information from the Birmingham Mail. Photos courtesy of Dennis Moore.

Birmingham Water Guard Special Constables — photograph 1 of 4Birmingham Water Guard Special Constables — photograph 2 of 4Birmingham Water Guard Special Constables — photograph 3 of 4Birmingham Water Guard Special Constables — photograph 4 of 4
Archive collection 03

Pillboxes, lookouts & shelters

Remains of the valley’s wartime defences, with locations where an Ordnance Survey grid reference was recorded.

Craig Cnwch Shelter — photograph 1 of 2
OS grid · SN92908 64176

Craig Cnwch Shelter

Remains of a World War II lookout post on Craig Cnwch, Elan Valley, 3m x 2m.

Craig Cnwch Shelter — photograph 2 of 2
Pillbox 1

Pillbox 1

Pillbox 1 overlooking the Foel Tower.

Pillbox 2 — photograph 1 of 2

Pillbox 2

Pillbox 2 overlooking the Foel Tower.

Pillbox 2 — photograph 2 of 2
Pillbox 3 — photograph 1 of 2

Pillbox 3

Pillbox 3 overlooking Garreg Ddu Dam and the Foel Tower.

Pillbox 3 — photograph 2 of 2
Pillbox 4
OS grid · SN909 639

Pillbox 4

Pillbox 4 stood where the Nantgwyllt Church car park is now. It was destroyed to make way for the car park. Photo taken in 1987, courtesy of Bryan Lawrence.

Gamriw Cairn IV
OS grid · SN9440 6188

Gamriw Cairn IV

A large cairn disturbed by a Home Guard shelter built into the centre. Photo taken by Vic Pardoe.

Cefn Llanfadog Shelter
OS grid · SN92807 65184

Cefn Llanfadog Shelter

Remains of a World War II lookout post on Cefn Llanfadog.

Archive collection 04

Firing ranges and historic photographs

Photographs of the Old Aber Mountain Road, suspected gun positions and remains of the artillery trials.

Firing Range — photograph 1 of 3
Photographic record 01

Firing Range

Three square areas which may once have been used as testing sites for the large guns just before and during World War I. This area is just off the Old Aber Mountain Road.

3 photographs
View all 3 photographs
Firing Range — photograph 2 of 3Firing Range — photograph 3 of 3
Firing Range — photograph 1 of 4
Photographic record 02

Firing Range

Another possible gun testing area just off the Old Aber Mountain Road, on the opposite side of the road from the areas above.

4 photographs
View all 4 photographs
Firing Range — photograph 2 of 4Firing Range — photograph 3 of 4Firing Range — photograph 4 of 4
Firing Range Postcards — photograph 1 of 8
Photographic record 03

Firing Range Postcards

Old postcards of training on the Old Aber Mountain Road.

8 photographs
View all 8 photographs
Firing Range Postcards — photograph 2 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 3 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 4 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 5 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 6 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 7 of 8Firing Range Postcards — photograph 8 of 8
Spotters
Photographic record 04

Spotters

Spotters just off the Old Aber Mountain Road.

1 photograph
Esgair Rhiwlan Shell — photograph 1 of 2
Photographic record 05

Esgair Rhiwlan Shell

Remains of one of the shells fired from one of the 6-inch guns. Found on Esgair Rhiwlan and now at Rhayader Museum.

2 photographs
View all 2 photographs
Esgair Rhiwlan Shell — photograph 2 of 2
Archive collection 05

Artillery range impact zones

Craters and mounds in the uplands, photographed during visits to the recorded locations.

Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 1 of 8
Photographic record 01

Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone

Craters and mounds from testing of the guns used during training before and during World War I. The shells were fired from the top of the old mountain road on Penrhiw-Wen Hill.

OS grid · SN87917 713678 photographs
View all 8 photographs
Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 2 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 3 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 4 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 5 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 6 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 7 of 8Esgair Rhiwlan Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 8 of 8
Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 1 of 16
Photographic record 02

Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone

Craters and mounds from testing of the guns used during training before and during World War I. The shells were fired from the top of the old mountain road on Penrhiw-Wen Hill.

OS grid · SN88098 7051216 photographs
View all 16 photographs
Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 2 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 3 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 4 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 5 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 6 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 7 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 8 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 9 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 10 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 11 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 12 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 13 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 14 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 15 of 16Esgair Cywion Artillery Range Impact Zone — photograph 16 of 16
Nant y Gro Dam
Explore more history

Nant y Gro Dam

Read more about the history of Nant y Gro Dam and its place in the valley’s story.

Explore Nant y Gro Dam →

The map below marks only sites with grid references in the original records. Pillboxes with incomplete references are left unmarked rather than given estimated positions.

Explore the Elan Valley on the map

Explore the Elan and Claerwen valleys using Ordnance Survey Leisure mapping.

Loading map…

Page visits: 59